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Leonidio 1/08 – 10/08 by dcebreross
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We are just back from beautiful Kyparissi, where we spent a good part of September continuing to work on the Climb Kyparissi project. This project, which started in 2015, is co-funded by the Municipality of Monemvasia and funds by two local benefactors administered by the Bodossaki Foundation. The Kyparissi project started in spring 2015; to date there are nine sectors across the wider area featuring nearly 200 routes. This year, three new sectors were created: Playground, with 12 easy routes on ultra-compact grey rock in a setting perfect for families and new climbers; Kapsala, featuring 25 routes, including a 5-pitch 6b route and some great harder climbs on red rock with prominent features, big holds and stalactites just above the sea; and this year’s pi猫ce de r茅sistance, sector Vlychada: a dream beachside crag 45 minutes south of Kyparissi, featuring 15 routes from 5c to 7b on excellent grey and featured red limestone with pockets and tufas.

 

Once again, a big Thank You to everybody who worked hard in making the Kyparissi project happen:

 

The Municipality of Monemvasia and its very active deputy mayor, Mr Panayiotis Traiforos; the Bodossaki Foundation; climbers Claude and Christine Remy, Yiannis Torelli, Claude Idoux, Dimitris Titopoulos, George Kopalides, Angy Eiter and Bernie Ruech; and the local residents and business owners of Kyparissi who continue to support the project and the equippers involved.

 

12 Comments

  1. Bient Grofsenn

    We visited kastraki and *every* *single* hold is hammered.

    Not to argue whether this is aesthetically nice (it isn’t), but also in such cases the climber doesn’t have to search for the way to climb the rock since its all there like a gym climb according to the equipper’s idea of how the route should be climbed.

    What is this? Not very nice 馃檨

  2. Lori

    We’ve climbed at Kastraki twice last year and actually quite liked it. The lines were nice and well-bolted. The crag was brand-new when we climbed, and I know we were all grateful for the cleaning, otherwise the holds would have been razor sharp–too sharp to climb.

  3. Bruno

    “holds hammered” … it is a good thing for the fingers … we spent some days at Kastraki last autumn, and we like this cliff … well bolted and wel cleaned … stop to the no cleaned routes, tu bolt a line and after nothing it i not a good job ! Equipeers have to clean the line, remove the grass and loose blocks and hammered the sharky holds!

  4. John Davidson

    Thanks Aris, Claude and others for all the wonderful work you are doing. I have been many times to Kalymnos and will continue to do so. Kyparissi looks wonderful though and I hope to visit soon. Could you give me some tips about accommodation options. Thank you again.
    John.

  5. njb

    any details on new routes at Kypariss since last Oct.

    A french team were out in October doing news routes on babala but i cant find any details , or has the free topo been up-dates ?

  6. Aris Theodoropoulos

    Hi Nigel,
    For the moment we are very busy working on the new edition of the Greece guidebook.
    There we will publish all the new info about Kyparissi.
    New routes at Babala (left) from the French team:
    1. Efcafisto : 8a
    2. Watt Didier doux : 8b+
    3. El Salavador : ~ 8c +
    4. A la verticale de soi : 8b
    5. Partage de l鈥檃dage : 8b
    6. L鈥檈nvol : ~ 8b
    7. Une derni猫re goutte pour la route : 8a+

  7. Mike

    Hi Aris, your info about the new updated guidebook is very interesting to me. i already booked a climbing trip to leonidio at october this year and wanted to know when the new guide comes out!?

  8. Aris Theodoropoulos

    Hi Mike,
    we are working on the new edition of the “Best of Greece” guidebook.
    We hope it will be available this spring, possibly at April.

  9. Chris Lawson

    Thanks to everyone involved in putting in all the hard work in developing this great looking area and for the topo.
    I hope to visit Kyparissi in the near future.
    Regards
    Chris

  10. Piotr

    Hello,
    I want to go to Kyparissi in the second half of November. Is there good weather on this time or is it too cold?

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