Sector: Mytikas Main
Mytikas (MEE-ti-kas) is a seaside village on the northwest coast of Greece, approximately 140 south of Igoumenitsa port. A few kilometers past the village, just above the road, is a beautiful limestone wall full of huecos and pockets, between the Acarnanian Mountains and the crystal-clear Ionian Sea. If you are coming to Greece from Italy via Igoumenitsa, Mytikas is a great spot to start or end your Greece climbing trip.
Known also as Voulkos Kamilafkas, sector Mytikas features a variety of grades, though most are in the 6a-6c range, so it should satisfy the majority of climbers.
A fishing village with approximately 850 residents, Mytikas doubles as a summer resort with small hotels, rental studios and restaurants in a Mediterranean setting. The cherry on top is the 4km-long pebble beach with blue/green waters. Ancient Alyzίa, an important city in antiquity, was located nearby. Another highlight is the lush island Kalamos across the water, just one nautical mile across, mentioned in the Odyssey as “verdant Karnos”. The emerald seawaters of the Ionian are famous for their clarity, and the tall pine trees grow all the way down to the water.
Getting to Mytikas
From Athens to Mytikas the distance is is 350km or 4hrs 20min. The best way to get there is via Patras. Take the motorway from Athens to Patras. At the time of writing, it is good motorway until Kiato; between Kiato and Patras the motorway is still under construction, so allow a bit of extra time. Then, from Patras it is 140km (or 2 hrs 10 min). Cross the Rio/Antirio Bridge then follow the Antirio–Ioannina road (Ionia Odos) towards Messolonghi then to Aitoliko then country roads -> Astakos -> Mytikas. At the intersection of Mytikas–Palairos, go towards Palairos. Immediately after the fish farm, with Mytikas village and Kalamos island on your left, there is a small shrine on the roadside to the right. Park there. The path is obvious and the cliffs are just overhead.
From Igoumenitsa port it is about 150km or 2 hours to drive. From Igoumenitsa, take the Egnatia Odos motorway -> Margariti -> Syvota -> Perdika -> Aktio -> Vonitsa -> Palairos. About 10–13 km after Palairos, with Mytikas village and Kalamos island on your right hand side, there is a small shrine on the roadside to the left. Park there. The path is obvious and the cliffs are just overhead.
Climbing : On vertical to slightly overhanging walls of excellent, ultra-solid, grey, red and white limestone. The cliff is full of small and large holes, huecos and pockets, which make climbing thoroughly enjoyable, albeit technical and requiring good footwork. Grades vary: the majority is in the mid-grades (6a to 6c), but grades start at 4b and go up to 7a-7b, so most climbers will be happy.
Equippers: Dimitris Katsoulas discovered Mytikas in 2003 and bolted most routes, aided by Iraklis Moysidis, Dimos Yfantis and Nikos Roditis (who is also in charge of maintenance for the sector). All routes were fully bolted and/or rebolted with Raumer 316L stainless-steel bolts.
Gear: 70m rope, 10 QDs (routes up to 15m), 12 QDs (up to 20m), 14 QDs (up to 30m).
☁ Shade: After 15:00. Exposure: SE
Kids: Perfect. It is next to the road and there are suitable areas around the cliffs.
Best Season: The mountains on the east and sea on the west create a microclimate which is cool in the summer and mild in winter, making Mytikas a year-round crag. In spring and summer afternoons the cliffs are in the shade after 15:00, in winter it is possible to climb all day.
