Sector: Anavra Yellow Rock
Sector: Kofi Ambelia
Sector: Kofi Penthouse
Almyros (pronounced al-mi-ROSS) is a modern town located halfway up Greece, just west of the Pagasetic Gulf and with Mount Othrys (1726m) rising above it. The largest city in the region, Volos, is 32km away. Almyros is established as an important agricultural and commercial center in Central Greece; furthermore, it is an agri-tourism destination on the rise. More importantly for climbers, though, Mount Othrys is home to some fantastic sport crags with the potential to become some of the best venues in Greece for hard climbing. ‘Hard’ being the operative word here: if you are not comfortable climbing at least 7a, this isn’t the place for you. The area’s main crags are near the mountain villages of Anavra (24km from Almyros; altitude 900m) and Kofi (11km from Almyros; altitude 500m). Routes at both crags are relatively new: most were bolted in the last eight years, and the hardest lines were set over the past four years. Chris Boukoros, a climber from Almyros, is the main equipper, with the help of other climbers from the area. The hardest routes were first redpointed by Greek climbers Christos Tsourvakas and Thanassis Chtenas.
Yellow Rock
An impressive crag close to the village, with excellent rock and good lines. Route length is 20-30m (the easier routes on the left are shorter). All routes are fully equipped with stainless steel bolts and hangers (some with glue-in rings) and double clipable lower-offs. Names for most routes are written at the base of the cliff.
Climbing: With the exception of the easy slabs, most routes are relatively overhanging with scattered tufa columns, crimps and small edges, and they require good footwork and good friction.
Gear: A single 70m rope and 16 QD for the longer routes.
Kids: A good place for kids, with open, flat areas.
Sun: Almost all day. Shade comes after 17.00 Exposure: S
Ambelia
Ambelia is the first crag you come to as you drive from Almyros to Kofi (pronounced ko-FEE). With approximately 20 routes, most between 6b-6c, it’s one of the area’s secondary crags with easier routes which you can combine with a visit to the main crag, ‘Spiliorema’.
Climbing: The climbing style varies. Most routes are vertical or slightly off-vertical, with the occasional dynamic move on small edges and even stalactites. All routes are fully equipped with stainless-steel bolts and hangers, double clipable lower-offs, and the name of each route is written at the foot. Additionally, there is room for 2-3 more beginner routes.
Gear: A 70m rope and 14 QD for the longer routes.
Kids: Good for kids.
Sun: All day. The shade arrives after 18.00. Exposure: S
Spiliorema
Relatively long routes, explosively technical moves, endurance, balance and overhanging rock make this an outstanding crag. ‘Spiliorema’ is divided into two sections: the Main Sector (north) with 20 routes and Penthouse Sector (south) with 11 routes.
Climbing: On very compact limestone with no loose rock. There is potential for many more routes of assorted grades. Route length ranges between 12—28m. All routes are fully equipped with stainless-steel hardware and clipable lower-offs, and the name of each route is clearly marked. Most routes are overhanging, and there are two roofs (only one of which is crossed by the routes).
Gear: A 70m rope and 16 QD for the longer routes.
Kids: Good for kids, with grassy and flat areas near the cliffs.
Sun: After 13.00 and until the end of the day. Exposure: W
