Leonidio – recommended routes

[KSim]

My friends and myself are going to Leonidio and Kyparissi for the first time in November this year. Could you be so kind and recommend some routes up to 7a+? I am mostly interested in vertical, slightly overhanging routes, rather technical than powerful 🙂

I have found some online topos and I am going to buy the new guidebook upon arrival but I like to learn more from fellow climbers who have already been in Leonidio.

Thank you for any recommendation and advice!

[KSim]

I extend my question to Kyparissi as well.

Anyone? 🙂

[jimb]

Hello , i dont know about leonidio , but for kyparisi i would recomend you the extensions at jeromes house , very beatyfull wall slightly overhanging at parts and long routes . Only problem , is the path to the crag which is in very very bad condition with big parts of broken glasses scattered along the way to make it even worst (also writting this as a mention to the admins to check the status of the trail as i was there last month ).

Kastraki is a very beatyfull crag with the first part being easy routes up to 6b+ (check kastraki ext 6a+, kakaras 6a+, and kepas 6b+), the upper part varies from 5c+ to 7a with nice climbing a bit overhanging with holes (that may have mice ) or with tufa (check tzambas 7a , gantemis 6c , frydias 6c ,tantra 6a+).

Neromylos has a small part with 2 6a routes at a beatyfull almost blank at parts wall where u park the car , that u should check for sure , the second one has an 6c ext at 35 meters that may have rope drag issues at the end but leads to a beatyfull big tufa . And for the rest is a part hard tufa at times overhanging, at times more vertical and a part easier routes at grey wall thta seemed sharp . Havent had the time to climb this crag but visited and saw the routes and i would say kyparisi 7a and kyparidiso 7a (36meters), kumara seemed very good .

didnt visit the other crags .

[KSim]

Thank you! I will definately follow your recommendations!

According to the online topo of Kyparissi (dated November 2015) the path leading to Jeromes House sector requires cleaning and it will be taken care of soon. I reckon it hasn’t been done yet.

[Author]

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