(Updated May 10, 2019) Two outstanding new crags, Balogeri and The Hideout, have been bolted in Kyparissi since last month. If you are waiting for the last minute to make plans for the festival here this weekend (10-12 May), now is the time! The busy Easter weekend has come and gone, there is plenty of accommodation in the village, and conditions are optimal (maybe even too cool, at least for us hot-blooded Greeks). Charlotte Durif, Yann “Diego” Ghesquiers, and all of us here in Kyparissi are looking forward to climbing with you, taking you to the new sectors and routes, and introducing you to the hospitality and glorious simplicity of this part of the country. If you need help visualizing Kyparissi, Andreas Markou’s short film Destination Kyparissi is an excellent primer.

1. New crag: THE HIDEOUT

The Hideout

The Hideout, a new sub-sector of the already-established crag Kapsala, is a beautiful, slightly overhanging red wall full of colonettes, tufas, pockets, and other features rising above a camouflaged narrow ledge over the Myrtoan Sea.

CLIMBING: One of the best crags in Kyparissi and beyond, with outstanding routes mostly on a red, slightly overhanging wall with colonettes. It’s hard to believe, but there are 30-meter-long routes with nearly all holds on colonettes and stalactites starting at just 6a 🙂

The Hideout is a very exposed, potentially scary sector, but the quality is such that all the work that went into developing it was absolutely worthwhile. And it took a lot of work and an immense effort by Dimitris Titopoulos, Dimitra Klaoudatou, George Kopalides, and Aris Theodoropoulos to develop The Hideout in April/May 2019.

CONDITIONS: Cool, with shade in the afternoon. Best for climbing in spring, fall, and summer.
On breezy days you will need to bring warm clothes! Shade: After 13:00. Exposure: NE

APPROACH*: From Kyparissi, drive along the new road to Fokiano beach and Leonidio. Approximately 13km from where the road begins, just before the enormous parking area with the two oversized cairns of sector Kapsala, park on the side of the road (by an orange road sign approx. 50m before the large parking area). A small cairn marks the start of the trail. Walk down the very steep trail until you come to a section with fixed ropes and a small via ferrata. At the first portion of the via ferrata with metal rungs, there is also a fixed rope if you prefer to rappel down. Further along there are more metal rungs in the rock and fixed ropes to help you along the path, which continues to be steep and/or narrow throughout. Walking time: 15-20 mins.

*The approach is very exposed and it is for experienced climbers only. The approach and the crag are NOT suitable for families, children, or new climbers. Helmets must be worn at all times, including when you approach and leave the crag.

ROUTES from left to right (click to enlarge, download, or print)

The Hideout // DOWNLOAD

2. New crag: BALOGERI

Balogeri

If ever there was a dream crag above the beach, Balogeri Gorge is it: cliffs and faces of top-quality limestone unfold through the mountains until they spill out onto a remote beach with small white pebbles and clear blue/green waters.

CLIMBING: At the moment there are 35 routes. The first pitches are on grey slabs and fully pocketed walls with grades between 5c–7a+. There are also a few great extensions on red rock with colonettes, big holds, and grades from 6b to about 8b. Balogeri was equipped in April/May 2019 by Charlotte Durif, Dimitris Titopoulos, Dimitra Klaoudatou, George Kopalides, and Aris Theodoropoulos.

CONDITIONS: Best for climbing in spring, fall, and summer, as there are many hours of shade.
Shade: Until 15:00-16:00 for routes on the left; all day for routes in the middle; until 13:00 for routes on the far right. Exposure: NW

APPROACH: Balogeri is 30km south of Kyparissi. From Kyparissi, drive to Harakas village, then to Lampkampos and Richea** villages. At Richea, look for the sign pointing left towards Vlychada and Balogeri (or Mpalogeri). Turn left following the sign and drive on a narrow paved road for approximately 5km. Then, the road splits: left to Vlychada, right to Balogeri. Turn right. This soon turns into a smooth dirt road. Drive carefully until you come to a wide turn with a small branch off to the left. GPS coordinates: 36.841556, 23.050528. (The road continues about 200m further, but it is very rough and not suitable for most vehicles.)

The beach and cliffs are visible from the parking area. Walk approximately 150m on the bumpy dirt road until you see a red sign on the left directing you down to the beach (the beach is called Damos on Google maps). Cross the beach and start up the trail on the other side marked with blue paint and some cairns. Walking time: 15-20 mins.

* As always, when climbing at a new crag, helmets are absolutely necessary.

** Richea village (pronounced ree-HYAH, rhymes with Hey Ya!), the starting point of Balogeri Gorge, is a lively traditional village with some cafés, a small taverna, and a few rental accommodation options. It is also home to two of the best crags in the area (Vlychada & Balogeri), so give it a chance: make a coffee or food stop, admire its old stone homes, or consider staying here for a few days.

ROUTES from left to right (click to enlarge, download, or print)

Balogeri // DOWNLOAD

Charlotte Durif cleaning and bolting her extension pitches at sector Balogeri.
Photo: Climb Greece / Aris Theodoropoulos

Charlotte Durif cleaning and bolting her extension pitches at sector Balogeri.
Photo: Climb Greece / Aris Theodoropoulos