Throughout the pandemic winter and spring (2020/2021), a small group of us worked on the conglomerate cliffs in and around Frygani, on the north of the Peloponnese peninsula. Developing new climbing areas is primarily outdoor work with physical distancing built-in, so the safety of all involved was ensured. The goal was to enrich this beautiful rural area of mountainous Corinthia with new routes, especially on cliffs with morning shade, thus making all-day climbing a possibility.
The team comprised Aris Theodoropoulos, Kostas Grafanakis, Dimitris Economou, Claude Idoux, and Katie Roussos. The project was funded by the Municipality of Sikyona, whose mayor, Mr. Stamatopoulos, is a warm and enthusiastic supporter of climbing development and has personally attempted climbing himself several times.
The first of the new sectors is Kefalari—a small cliff next to the village of the same name and near the EOF mountain refuge.
To the right of Frygani Main is a new training sector called Egg Wall. Further right still along Frygani Main, at a big wall of up to 150-180m, four long fully bolted multi-pitches were added.
Opposite Frygani, on the left of sector Mylos, a small new cliff called Astra added 20 new routes to the area.
All names are fixed at the base of the routes on little stainless steel plaquettes courtesy of Lappas Climbing.
Gear
A single 60m rope (80m for extensions).
For routes up to 20m: 12 QDs.
For routes up to 30m: 16 QDs.
For routes up to 40m: 22 QDs.
Conditions
Good for climbing all year long. In winter, climb at the main cliff in the morning. In spring, fall, and summer, make sure to stay in the shade, unless the day is cloudy and cool.
Orientation
Kefalari: S
Frygani Main: E
Mylos, Astra: W
Shade/Exposure
Kefalari: Lots of sun; shade only after 17:00.
Frygani Main: Morning sun, afternoon shade (after about 15:30).
Mylos, Astra: Morning shade until about 14:00; afternoon sun.
Kids
Nearly perfect for kids, as walking is minimal and there are several flat/suitable areas at the foot of the various cliffs.
Approach to Frygani Main (37.931712, 22.533892)
From Athens, take the highway in the direction of Corinth and Patras. Exit at Kiato. Drive in the direction of Stymfalia (south) for 23km. Pass the intersections to villages Klimenti and Kaisari. The main cliff is on the right-hand side. Park on the narrow side road and follow cairns up the narrow path for three minutes.
Note: Due to some car break-ins a few years ago, we would suggest not parking below Frygani Main. It is best to drop off your climbing partner(s) and gear at the parking area, then drive a bit further, either to the parking lot of a taverna called magkas (1.4km) or opposite at a small shop selling traditional products (37.921729, 22.527051). It takes 15 minutes to walk back to the cliff from there.
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Download the Frygani mini guide (.PDF)
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