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Cragspotting

Anatoli (a-na-to-LEE) was an old, abandoned crag in Nafplio overlooking Karathona beach, with just two routes bolted there in the early ‘90s. The grey slabs of Anatoli are close to the road, they are very compact, and they get afternoon shade, so developing it into a complete sport crag was on our to-do list for a while. We were finally able to do it in early December. Anatoli is now a nice, climber-friendly sport crag, with 25 routes up to 25m high and grades from 4a to 6b+. For the majority of sport climbers, Anatoli meets two popular requirements: lots of easier routes and year-round climbing conditions. Anatoli is at the opposite end of the beach from another Nafplio crag, Karathona, so the two can be combined in one day. In warmer months, climb at Karathona in the morning, take a mid-afternoon beach break, and end the day climbing at Anatoli.

 

The making of the crag

 

Sector Anatoli was bolted by Aris Theodoropoulos and Claude Remy. It went like this: In late November 2014, our friends Claude and Christine Remy visited us in Athens for a few days of “shopping and culture”. This was an overly ambitious plan for the men, however, who grew fidgety and restless. Two museum-filled days later, they ditched their wives for their Hiltis and took off to Nafplio. Claude and Aris subsequently spent two very full days cleaning Anatoli of loose rock and stubborn vegetation and drilling many of the routes. After Claude left, Aris spent another five or six days over the next two weeks to complete the bolting of Anatoli, with the invaluable help of Kostas Tsoukleidis, Nadine Strobl, Christos Rigas and Katie Roussou.

 

The result: Anatoli is a very nice crag for easier routes (4a-6b+) with enjoyable and surprisingly varied climbing for the grades. We expect Anatoli to become quite popular; in fact, on the day after Christmas we were surprised to find 20 climbers there, despite the fact that this is the first time we are publishing any information about it.

 

Equipping: More than 250 stainless steel bolts and hangers were used to equip Anatoli. All routes were bolted by Aris Theodoropoulos and Claude Remy, except “Apple Strudel” (Kostas Tsoukleidis) and “Risotto” (Nadine Strobl). The crag’s two original routes “Amphitryon” (A. Theodoropoulos/F. Athanasiou/D. Mavropoulos 1994) and “Antonis” (A. Antonopoulos 1996?) were rebolted. All bolts were provided by Aris Theodoropoulos/Climb Greece.

 

Climbing: Technical and enjoyable on vertical or off-vertical, fully-pocketed, very compact grey and red limestone. Good footwork is a plus. On the left are some easy training routes for new climbers. The bolting on all routes is very good and encouraging, if we do say so ourselves.

 

Conditions: Located at the western edge of Karathona Beach, Anatoli gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. It is perfect for year-round climbing: all-day climbing in the winter and afternoon climbing in the summer.

 

Shade: After 14:00 in spring/summer; after 16:00 in winter. There is sun in the morning and early afternoon.

 

Exposure: E

 

Map coordinates: 37.549132, 22.815488

 

Approach: As you come into town from Leoforos Argous, keep slightly to the right and onto Kiprou St. As soon as you see the hill of Palamidi ahead of you, turn left onto 25 Martiou St following the sign to “Palamidi”. At the top of the uphill road, on the outskirts, do not turn right towards “Palamidi” but continue straight ahead, towards Karathona Beach. Drive downhill for about 1km and turn at the first road you meet on the right. Park 100m before the end of the road. The cliff is up to your right. The path is very good and marked in blue. Walking time: Less than 1 min.

 

What’s in a word? Anatolí means “east”.

 

Bonus points for: Great location; short approach; ample parking space; proximity to the beach and to other Nafplio crags (Karathona and Neraki); short distance from Athens; lots of easy routes; climber-friendly bolting.

 

Still to do: Clean up the garbage from the end of the road beneath the crag. We hope to do so in the near future; volunteers welcome!

 

ROUTES (click here for printable version)

 

1 Alalum    2*  3c  8m  A short training route.
2 Laertes    2*  3c  8m  Good for learning to lead.
3 Pelops    2*  4a  12m  Another line good for beginners.
4 Lais    2*  4c  12m  Big holds all the way.
5 Fricasee    3*  5b  15m  A bulge with good jugs.
6 Photosynthesis    2*  5c  18m  One hard move to reach the ‘thank god’ hold!
7 Apple Strudel    2*  5c  18m  A weaving enjoyable line.
8 Christina    3*  5b  25m  A long, delicate climb.
9 Klod    3*  5b+  25m  A long wall climb full of good holds.
10 Alkmene    2*  5c  25m  The corner and wall.
11 Nadine    3*  6b  20m  A steep, devious start leads to more technical climbing.
12 KTR    ♪  6a+  20m  An awesome sequence on the big holes. Same lower-off as ‘Nadine’.
13 Aristotelis    ♪  6a+  20m  A thin, balancy crux, then amazing pockets.
14 Antonis    3*  6a+  20m  Off-balance holes, corner, and a not-so-obvious final wall.
15 Fondue    3*  6a+  25m  A fingery wall and exposed flake.
16 Amphitryon    2*  5c+  25m  An easy ramp and fingery headwall.
17 Anapli    3*  6b+  15m  A bouldery start leads to continuous technical moves.
18 Goji Power    2*  6b  20m  Crux at the short ramp.
19 Smiling Tsouk    ♪  6a+  22m  A steep start on big jugs; then, challenging finale on a red wall.
20 Da Bosco    3*  6a  22m  A great corner full of hidden holds.
21 Grand Sarai    2*  6a  22m  Technical wall climbing.
22 Kapodistrias    2*  6a+  22m  Again, technical climbing on small holds.
23 Elvis    2*  6a+  22m  There are good pockets where you need them!
24 Spicy Chicken    2*  6b+  22m  A defined technical crux.
25 Risotto    2*  5a  20m  An easy, mountain-style climb. Bridging helps.

 

Sector Anatoli has already been added to our Greek crag database. All route names are clickable and open to comments. If you have any feedback or grade suggestions after climbing at Anatoli, please share them by posting a comment.

4 Comments

  1. Nicolas

    Very beautiful place, but beware as there is a nest of hornets at the left of the cliff, close to the short easy routes. They are quite agressive 🙁

  2. arigo

    We have found out that at least 2 of the routes (Anapli & Spicy Chicken) have been extended and the old anchors have now moved higher.

    The grade for Anapli (6b+) probably won’t have to change, but Spicy Chicken (6b+), seems to be significantly harder now.

    Any information or update of the routes’ descriptions will be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Alexandros

  3. Admin

    Hi there Alexandre,

    Indeed, both anchors were moved last month to add some height to these routes.

    The grade of “Anapli” remains the same, as you said. We didn’t think “Spicy Chicken” was significantly harder now, but your feedback is more than welcome; if other climbers also think “Spicy Chicken” is harder now, the grade can be changed to reflect this.

  4. Marcel

    Update about the hornets, they are still active! And if you go further to the left as “Christina” (Route 5) you have many many of them direct in the front of your face! But the good thing is: to the right of “Christina” anything is fine 🙂

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